Using Ceramic Tiles

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First step….. Selecting wall tiles

Ceramic wall tiles are polished in a great assortment of shades, styles and sizes. A design that best fits a persons style and color preference can be chosen. Time should be taken to check for displays and see what will be most appealing to personal taste. Once a particular tile has been selected, determine the number of tiles that need to be purchased. A simple method to do this would be to measure the height of the wall and compute how many of the chosen tile size will be necessary to fit from the floor to the ceiling. Count the half or part of a tile as a whole piece. Repeat the same procedure with the width of the wall. Increase the number needed for the height by the number for the width and this will yield the total number for the wall. Do the same procedure for the other walls. Make adjustments for allowances on doors and windows, and for the addition of other adorned tiles.

Selecting floor coverings

Ceramic floor tiles, quarry, terra cotta, marble and slate are also produced in many designs. Select the one that best suits personal taste and preference. Take time to look around before considering a certain tile type. Sizes of these tiles are usually from 20cm to 33cm square. Floor tiles are denser than wall tiles and some of them can even be used either indoors or outdoors. A lot of designs are fit for use on countertops as well as the floor. They are strong enough to survive severe usage, blows, heat and cold. Marble, as an example, would not preserve its look for long if used regularly cutting board.

Glue and cement

Long-staying tiles depend to a great extent on the glue used to join its undersurface together. A careful selection for the type of adhesive to use in a particular location should be done. On wall tiles it would be best to use a commercially prepared wall tile adhesive or the kind that is water resistant. The ordinary and less expensive kind is fit for use in almost all dry locations. It can withstand some water splashing or some condensation and is therefore suited for a well ventilated kitchen or bathroom, and also around the bath or basin if the family is inclined not to overfill the walls.

There are several particular tile tools that are indispensable in the repairing or replacing of ceramic tiles. Among these tools are the tile cutter, tile nipper and notched trowel.

Tile Cutter

A tile cutter is probably the most important tool required for the repair and replacement of ceramic tiles. A tile cutter is easy to use. Its main function is to hold the tile in a frame as a cut line is scored on the tile by a small wheel. When the tile cutter handle is pressed, the tile is neatly cut along the scored line. For thicker tiles, it might be necessary to score it several times. Before using the tile cutter, it is recommended to oil the guide bar and scoring wheel. When the scoring wheel eventually gets worn out, it should be immediately replaced so the cutter is always able to make nice clean cuts.

Tile Nipper

A tile nipper is generally used for irregular cuts. A glasscutter or utility knife is first used to score a cut line on the tile then the nipper is used to nibble off small bits of tile until what you need remains. To keep the nibbled pieces small, it usually helps to score gridlines on the areas you need removed. Using a tile nipper involves a lot of patience, so go slowly and carefully, as taking off pieces that are too big will make you go beyond the cut line and cause you to start over with a fresh, uncut tile.

Using a tile nipper tends to leave jagged edges on the tile, so it is recommended to use a tile nipper in less visible areas or in areas that will be covered with trim, like around plumbing fixtures. It is also a good idea to wear some kind of eye protective gear while using tile nippers, as small and sharp pieces of tile usually go flying about when cut, which can cause potential eye damage.

Notched Trowel

A notched trowel is considered to be one of the most important tools where tiles are involved, as they are used to spread and comb adhesives. The trowel has two sides that either have “V” or “square-shaped” notches, which provide its unique look. V-notched trowels are used for setting mastics on vertical surfaces, while square-notched trowels are used for thin sets on horizontal surfaces. The notched trowel also comes with different notch depths, and it is recommended to use notch depths that are at least two-thirds of the thickness of the tiles to be used. Another type of trowel, the margin trowel, is a helpful tool for scooping out adhesives and grout as well as spreading adhesives in narrow places.

Removing tiles can always be a risky task. The removal of the first tile is always the most difficult, but once done, the remaining tiles will be easier to remove. When the tiles are set into a mortar or cement bed on walls, or are glued to a rigid cement-based board, then you won’t have any choice but to break them off in order to remove them.

The first and most important step is scraping out all the grout from the borders of the tiles that you want to remove. This can be done by using a sharp utility knife or a razor blade mounted in a special holder. If the grout is soft, it can be scraped out easily, and since hard caulks will soften with heat, you can make the task easier by using a heat gun at a low setting or even a hair dryer. When all the tiles are free of grout and caulk, lightly tap on the tiles to see if any are slightly loose, particularly tiles that are loose due to some water seepage. In fact, this deterioration in the walls behind the tiles is the frequent cause of most regrouting or recaulking jobs that unexpectedly turn into small renovations. These loose tiles can be most likely found near tub corners or places with moisture, and locating one will make the rest come off easily.

To remove the tile, gently but forcefully push a thin putty knife 2″ to 3″ wide between the first tile you want to remove and its surrounding tiles, breaking any leftover grout that seals them together while moving around the edges. Each tile should be forced open away from the wall, with the tile corners easier to chip. You will also need to break the tiles if the wall is mortar.

Despite all the care and patience you can muster while working, there is still a probability that you will break one or more tiles. Keep in mind that working too quickly will ensure tile breakage in one form or another. If breakage does occur, dont despair. Instead, use this as an opportunity to be creative, by using replacement tiles in another color that complement the existing tiles, or you can choose from a wide selection of available tile designs to come up with a unique tile pattern.

It is always advisable to follow the precise instructions for mixing grout. A normal mix ratio would be one quart of water for every 10-pound bag of grout. Clean water is first poured into a mixing container, and the powder is added. Mixing can be done by hand using a margin trowel and mixing for about two to three minutes. However, best results can be achieved by using a ring paddle and 1/2″ heavy-duty drill. Before applying the grout on the substrate, stir the mixture again to ensure a smooth, creamy and lump-free consistency.

Check first if the tile joints are clean and free of dust, mortar and foreign matter. Use a rubber float to apply the grout to the floor or wall tile joints. Make sure that the joints are completely filled by forcing a maximum quantity of grout into the joints. The finished joint should be smooth with no pinholes, voids or low spots. For worry-free installations, it is also recommended to hire professional tile setters for these types of jobs.

Excess Grout

For excess grout, allow the grout to set firmly in the joints before using the rubber float to carefully scrape or plow out the excess, avoiding to gouge into the filled joints. Dampen the entire the area with a minimum amount of water and let it stand for about one minute. Use one side of a lightly damp sponge to clean the face of the tile and then turn it over on the next pass. After two passes, rinse the sponge thoroughly, soak it again with clean water and repeat, until the excess grout has been completely removed.

Finishing the Job

After the grout has hardened in the joints, wipe off any remaining dry film on the tile surface by finishing or polishing with a damp terry cloth or similar pad. A good amount of waiting time would be around 90 minutes, after which tiled floors and wall areas can be used.

It is important to note that the amount of grout required will depend on the tile size, depth, and joint width. One unit comprising 10 lbs of grout will cover around 100 square feet of standard 8″ x 8″ paver tiles, with joints 1/4″ wide and 3/16″ deep. For 6″ x 6″ tile with similarly sized joints, one unit of grout for about 85 square feet will be needed.