Using Ceramic Tiles

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Sealing the grout in ceramic tile floors is very important. Most ceramic floor tiles are made by a process called “dust pressing,” where hardly any moisture is left in the clay before it is fired in a kiln. This causes the tiles to be dense enough that they become almost water-proof, and will not accept any type of sealer. If sealer is allowed to dry on the tile surface, a gummy mess will result, so the problem lies in how to seal the grout joints while keeping the sealer away from the tiles.

Tile Sealers

Tile sealers are generally protective coatings that fill in or seal the porous surfaces of ceramic tiles and grout joints. You can usually see this porosity as tiny holes in the surface of the tile or grout. Sealing can be beneficial, particularly on tile floors with frequent heavy traffic, and will not only enhance and extend the beauty of any tile, but can cut down on regular tile maintenance as well.

Types of Tile Sealers

Tile sealers can be obtained from tile supply dealers that will have experts who can advise you on its proper use. Tile sealers come in two types: the smelly ones with a mineral base, and the non-smelly ones with a latex or water base. For home use, the tile sealers that do not smell are recommended, with some formulated to last as long as fifteen years.

While the requirements for each installation varies, it is always necessary to determine the following factors on the ceramic tiles:

1. Exposure to corrosion, abrasion and staining. 2. Type, volume and size of wheel traffic. 3. Type and volume of foot traffic. 4. Application of twisting and grinding motions.

Once these are determined, the correct type of tile sealer can be identified, whether it is for residential (light traffic) or commercial (heavy traffic) purposes.

A tile and grout sealer is used to seal tile floors. Sealing should be done approximately 28 days after grouting, and the surfaces should be clean and dry before any sealer is applied. The sealer is painted on the dry tile or grout, making sure that all crevices and cracks are covered, then allowed to dry, after which a second coat is applied. Sealing floors not only prevents the grout from being scattered around the house, it makes cleaning the tiles convenient as well.

Cutting ceramic tiles usually involves cutting around the edges of the main tile areas as well as cutting tiles to fit the contours of fixtures like pipes and wash basins. It is always a good idea when cutting ceramic tiles to take various safety precautions, like wearing safety glasses to protect the eyes from possible sharp splinters.

Making Straight Cuts

1. As you tile into corner areas you should always expect to cut tiles as you go along.

2. For accurate measurements, always use a tape measure.

3. Simple tile cutters and wet saws can be borrowed or rented from most tile dealers or local equipment rental centers.

4. Score the tile only once when using a non-powered tile cutter, as multiple scores will only create jagged edges on the tile and also make the blade dull. The breaking wings located at the bottom of the cutter handle should always be placed about 1/2″ from either edge of the tile, and the handle should be slowly but firmly pressed down until the wings break the tile.

5. After all the field tiles are laid, always carefully cut tiles to fit around pipes and faucets, then smooth any rough edges with a tile sander if needed.

Making Complicated Cuts

A) Irregular tile shapes can be cut using a tile nipper, and a micro cutter can also help in scoring the cut line. To make the tile wrap around plumbing, you might need to cut a tile in two pieces.

B) It is also advisable to cut the tile with a series of cuts using a wet tile saw and then going over it with the blade to smoothen it out.

If a lot of complicated cuts will be required then it is recommended to rent a diamond cut-off wheel or a saber saw with carbide blade from an equipment rental center or tile dealer. One for small holes in plumbing, a tile cuffing attachment for your drill can be used.

Ceramic tiles are popularly used on walls or as flooring in many contemporary houses. With different sizes, styles, colors costs, and finishes, ceramic tiles are not only used due to their beauty and durability, but also because they are relatively easy to clean and maintain, as long as some standard guidelines are followed.

Glazed or Unglazed

Ceramic tiles are made from a mixture of clay containing silicates, which are then formed and baked at high temperatures. The tiles come in either glazed or unglazed types. Because they do not have an outer coating, unglazed tiles require more cleaning and maintenance. Ceramic tiles should be regularly cleaned by wiping them with water, then drying them. Doing this everyday will prevent the buildup of dirt, mold, mildew and hard water stains on the tile surface.

Grout

Ceramic tiles are often held together by grout, which is a substance made of cement and fine sand, or composed of acrylic materials such as silicon. Grout has also been known to accumulate mold, mildew and stains. You can tell if this happens when the grout between the tiles develops a mild discoloration and the tiles have a dull finish. To clean this, mix 1/4th cup of mild detergent with a one-gallon bucket of water, then dip a sponge into the solution and wipe over the affected areas. When the tiles and grout have been thoroughly cleaned, rinse them with plain water. Never use scouring powder or other harsh abrasives when cleaning tiles because these cleansers will usually scratch and damage the tile surface.

Severe Stains

In cases where mild detergent is not effective on tiles and grout with severe grime, you can use a solution made of chlorine bleach and water. It is also a good idea before you start to check for proper ventilation and wear strong rubber gloves on your hands, particularly if walls need to be cleaned.

To make the solution, mix one quart of chlorine bleach into two gallons of water. Let the solution sit for about 15 to 20 minutes. Dip a sponge, mop or soft bristle brush into the solution and clean all the dirty areas, leaving the solution untouched on the tile surface for about 10 to 20 minutes depending on the amount of grime present. When done, rinse the whole area with plain water, then use mild detergent and water to remove any remaining traces of the bleach. Finally, rinse the area again with plain water then dry it thoroughly by wiping with a clean cloth.

In addition to these methods for cleaning ceramic tiles, it is also highly recommended to prevent germs from accumulating on the tiles by using a commercial mildew retardant spray. Your ceramic tiles will keep looking as good as new for a long time once you regularly follow these basic cleaning tips.

While they are manufactured with care, frequent use throughout the years will eventually cause the tiles to develop some minor imperfections. Repairing individual tiles is a much easier solution than replacing the entire floor. The following repair tips can help to make your tile floor look brand new again. These tips are best used for vinyl tiles, vinyl sheet for floor covering or linoleum flooring.

Before you start, you will need some tools and materials, like tinfoil, clothes iron, putty knife, mineral spirit and some floor covering adhesive. A few pieces of scrap wood and two buckets of water for weighing down the tiles are also required.

Flattening a Curled Tile

Step 1. First pull up the tile corner and cover the curled tile with a piece of tinfoil. Then set the clothes iron to medium heat and apply it on the covered tile. The tinfoil will help to prevent damage and discoloration from the heat of the iron. When the tile becomes pliable from the heat, use a putty knife to lift the curled corner and scrape off the old adhesive from the tile corner and exposed floor underneath.

Step 2. Apply some adhesive to the underside of the exposed tile corner then press the corner firmly into place. Wipe off any excess adhesive with mineral spirits.

Step 3. Once the tile is firmly in place, weigh it down with two buckets of water until the tile sets. To evenly distribute the weight of the buckets over the tile, place some scrap wood pieces underneath the buckets.

Replacing a Damaged Tile

Step 1. Cover the damaged tile with tinfoil and press a warm iron over it until the tile becomes pliable. Using a utility knife, cut into the center of the tile and pry up the tile from the cut to remove it.

Step 2. Apply mineral spirits to the exposed floor under the damaged tile then scrape off the old floor covering adhesive with the putty knife.

Step 3. Cover the replacement tile with tinfoil and apply a warm clothes iron on it. Once the new tile becomes flexible from the heat, use a notched trowel to place some adhesive on the floor and drop the tile into place. Press the tile down firmly and use mineral spirits to wipe away any adhesive that seeps out. Finally, weigh the tile down with scrap wood underneath buckets of water until the tile sets and dries.

A well known characteristic is that they are relatively easy to clean and are virtually dust proof. If their surface becomes dirty or greasy, a simple wipe with a damp cloth using water or cleaning agents like detergent or bleach will restore them to normal.

They are durable to use in the home because they are naturally resistant to chafing and corrosion as well as to chemical and biological agents. Since ceramic surfaces also tend to avert humidity, ceramic tiles prevent the spread of harmful dust mites and fungi. They also make stable flooring materials, but should be brought inside the room to balance the temperature of the tiles and the sub floor, at least a day before installation.

Doing the Tile Layout

Before placing the ceramic tiles, a sketch of the room’s floor plan should be made. This plan should contain all the necessary details that could have any bearing on the installation, like location of doors, cabinets, toilets and electricity supplies.

It is also a good idea to check the tiles, making sure that all of them are in good condition before starting the actual installation. Plan ahead to mix the tiles properly. Since the tiles can come in a wide variety of colors, evenly mixing the tiles together will prevent glaring differences in the design of the floor pattern.

Choose a rough patch of area to tile, leaving just enough adhesive to cover it. Use the smooth edge of the trowel held at a 30-degree angle to spread around the thin set. Afterwards, comb the adhesive with jagged edges using the trowel at a 45- to 75- degree angle. Twist each tile slightly as you press it into the adhesive, making sure to use a straight edge liner so they are properly aligned. You can also use a churn block to press several tiles into the adhesive at the same time.

Required Tools

Certain tools will be required to ensure a superior quality installation of the tiles. These tools mostly comprise measuring tools, which include tape measures, squares, chalk lines, pencils, straight edges, levels and even a story pole. Of course, having a well-planned layout before starting the installation is just as important.

Fired clay ceramic tiles with a thin porcelain coating can be neatly cut with a straight ceramic tile cutter. However, a ceramic tile cutter may not be able to correctly cut stone, fully vitrified porcelain tiles and some types of unglazed clay tiles. For those types of tiles, a wet saw is required instead. Before starting your project, it is always a good idea to practice cutting a few times with some scrap tile.

Scoring and Cutting

For directly cutting tiles in half or in pieces, a tile cutter is the ideal tool to use. Tile cutters not only make cutting tiles easier, they also keep the cut lines straight and square. Cutting the tile is as easy as aligning it with the arrow on the tile cutter then positioning the guide and tightening it firmly to hold the tile in place. If you need to make multiple cuts of the same size, you can always keep the guide in place.

The cutter first scores the surface of the glazed tile, and when you pull the handles towards the top edge of the tile and press down, the tile should break exactly along the scored marking. A glass harvester can also be used to score the tiles, with a large nail placed under the tile to break them, but keep it mind that scoring and snapping tiles using this method requires a lot of work, and results in higher breakage.

Tile cutters are available at hardware, home specialty and flooring stores. These places can also rent or let you borrow the cutters if you purchase the tiles and other materials from them.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Cleaning the tiles is easy, but can be tedious. It is important to note that you should never clean tiles parallel to the grout joints; always clean them at a 45 degree angle to prevent the grout from being gradually removed. To remove haze from the tile surface, a sponge or clean cloth like an old white T-shirt can also be used to wipe the tiles.

A faucet is a device that regulates the flow of liquids from sources like drums, pipes or reservoirs. For cutting tiles around faucets, various tools are used, specifically tile cutters, tile nippers, notched trowels, grout floats, grind stones, rod saws, tub saws and jamb saws.

Tile Cutting Tools

A tile cutter is an excellent tool for those who are into do-it-yourself projects. A tile cutter is mostly used for straight cuts, with a small wheel scoring a cut line into the tile. Pressing down on the cutter handle will snap the tile neatly along the scored line, with thicker tiles needing to be scored several times before they can be cut. While tile cutters are available at most supply stores, it is advisable to just rent one if you won’t be using a tile cutter frequently.

A tile nipper is used for making uneven cuts. It is recommended to clearly score the cut line with a glass cutter or utility knife first and then carefully take off small bits of tile with the nipper until done. A tile nipper will cause jagged edges on the cut portions of the tile, so it is best used in less visible areas or around plumbing fixtures, where the tiles will be covered with trim.

Notched trowels are used to spread and comb adhesive layers on the exposed floor surfaces. The trowel has two sides serrated with either “V” or “square-shaped” notches. V-notched trowels are used for spreading mastics on vertical surfaces, while square-notched trowels are used for spreading thin sets on horizontal surfaces. As they come in diverse notch depths, use a trowel that is about two-thirds of the thickness of the tiles you plan to set.

Grout floats are simply rubber or foam-faced trowels that are used to apply grout into the joints between the tiles. The grout is usually worked into the joints by moving the float diagonally back and forth.

Trim Tiles

After laying out all the tiles, quarter round edge tiles and corner pieces will need to be applied on the edges. Placing trim tiles is as simple as applying adhesive on the back of the tile and sticking them in the correct position on the wall. Once the joints are filled, scrape off the excess grout with the straight edge on the side of the float. In order to properly do this, you will need to use diagonal motions and hold the float almost at a 90 degree angle. Like jagged trowels, disposable grout floats can be purchased at most tile supply stores.

Although they can be cold to stand on, ceramic floor tiles are durable materials that are resistant to water, stains and spillages. Ceramic floor tiles are generally made of natural clay decorated with colored glaze on one side and are available in a wide variety of colors, patterns and shapes.

While not as highly polished as wall tiles, the surfaces of ceramic floor tiles can have a matte, glazed or unglazed finish. For unglazed ceramic floor tiles, they must be sealed with a proper proprietary sealant once they are are laid. Stronger ceramic floor tiles come in larger sizes and tend to be thicker and darker on the underside. These tiles are vitrified, which means that they are fired at higher temperatures so the particles fuse together, making them almost unbreakable when laid.

Cutting

Due to their thickness, ceramic floor tiles are cut using a floor tile cutting tool with angled jaws. The length of tiles should be marked along its length with a wooden stick, keeping in mind to allow spacing for grouting, which can also be used later as a tile gauge. Of course, it’s always a good idea to buy a few extra ceramic floor tiles to keep as handy replacement tiles in case they crack or break while cutting them to fit, or to store as convenient spare tiles if they are damaged in the future.

Laying

When laying out ceramic floor tiles, it’s important to lay the first tile correctly because its position will determine and affect the position of the other tiles afterwards. Apply a layer of adhesive on the back part of the tile and press into the desired place. It’s recommended to use a waterproof, floor tile adhesive, which allows slight flexibility when set. To ensure a straight edge positioning of the tiles, a batten nailed to the floor can be used as a guide, while plastic spacers or a thick card can be used to evenly regulate the space between tiles. When the floor tiling is complete, these areas will then be grouted, so they should be equally spaced in order to have neat, accurate results.

Cleaning

Since they already come with a natural glazed or matte finish, ceramic floor tiles do not really require much polishing. When cleaning the surface of the ceramic floor tiles, it is much more preferred to sweep them rather than to vacuum the tiles, as some vacuum cleaners have attachment ends that could scratch the surface of the tiles.

Ceramics are initially made from clay containing large amounts of silicates. This clay mixture is then subjected to heat treatment which results in inert and non-metallic floor tile materials. When ceramic floor tiles require cleaning, glazed tiles are much easier to clean than unglazed ones. Tiles used in homes are often set in a thin plaster-like substance called grout, which occasionally becomes soiled and dirty with frequent use. This can be cleaned by vacuuming regularly and wiping with a damp mop or by using a mild detergent solution to wipe away heavier soiling and add shine.

Cleaning Tile Floors

The best way to clean a ceramic tile floor is to use an electric floor washer or polisher-scrubber to scrub the tiles. This type of cleaning action usually brightens the tiles and joints. The tiles can also be cleaned by dousing them with a solution comprised of 1/4 cup low-sudsing detergent, or one to two tablespoons of washing soda or tri-sodium phosphate, or a commercial floor cleaning powder mixed with one gallon of water. During cleaning, there could be white or gray dust tracks over the tile surfaces and into carpeted floor areas, with whitish earth coming from the grout. In these cases, muriatic acid can be used to clean the floor surfaces. Dingy-looking grout can be brightened by scrubbing with hot suds and applying a diluted solution of chlorine bleach and then scrubbing and repeating the process, keeping the tiles wet for about five minutes.

Tile installers nowadays use commercial products that are easy to wash off, but are also more expensive. Bathroom cleaners in aerosol spray form can be effective in cleaning tiles, as long as you follow the directions on the container. Using harsh abrasive or scouring powders will tend to scratch the finish, so avoid using them; keep in mind that glazed tile is easy to scratch, so treat it like porcelain enamel.

More Tile Cleaning Tips

The tile floor surface should be scrubbed regularly using some detergent with a scrub brush or large sponge and then rinsed with clean water, making sure that any dirty water is removed from crevices. The floor must be allowed to dry thoroughly; when cleaning tile floors adjacent to carpeted areas, place folded towels on the carpet to absorb water.

If buildups of soap scum, minerals from hard water, or mildew is present in bathroom ceramic tiles, some concentrated effort in cleaning might be needed. Dissolve these buildups with a strong commercial tile cleaner and clean them off.

Cutting tile can be quite easy with the right tools. In general, tiles can be cut or shaped with a carbide wheel tile cutter, tile nipper or diamond saw cutter. Cuts can be done straight, in circles or by clipping off edges for pipes or other fittings. Tile is similar to glass in the sense that when the glazed surface is cleanly scored and pressure is applied to each side, it will break neatly along the scoring.

Tile cutters have a carbide wheel like standard glass cutters. The cutter can hold the tile square to the cutting blade, and a clean, straight line can be scored by sliding the handle with some applied force. Pressing down on the handle will cut the tile along the line.

Cutter Blades

Tile cutters can normally cut pieces only up to 5/8 inch wide. For thinner pieces, an abrasive saw blade, diamond wet saw or hacksaw with carbide blade might be required. The best tool for this purpose would be a diamond wet saw, as they can cut quickly and accurately. These saws are not really dangerous, since they do not have teeth like regular wood blades, but tiny pieces of diamond that can be found on the edge and sides of the blade. However, you might think twice about actually buying one, as a decent diamond wet saw costs nearly $1,000.

Cutting Circles in Tiles

There are two ways of cutting circles in tiles. The first is buying an expensive carbide circle whole saw, which is nice but too costly for onetime use. The second is to get an inexpensive carbide rod saw blade that fits into a standard hacksaw frame. You will first need to drill a large enough hole in the tile that allows the actual blade to be inserted then attach it to the hacksaw frame so you can start sawing. It is important to note that the tile must be firmly supported as you saw, otherwise it will crack when you reach the end of your cut. It is also a good idea as you are about to reach the end to slow down and use less force when cutting.